The Buddhist temples of Bagan in central Myanmar
(also known as Burma)
make for compelling images. They were certainly enough to give Bagan - which
features some 3,000 temples within a 42 square kilometre area archaelogical
zone - a prominent place in my itinerary during a trip to Myanmar
in July 2015.
The reality was more prosaic. While Nyaung U and the other
towns that serve as visitors' entry point to Bagan have little to recommend
them either architecturally or aesthetically, the Burmese authorities' approach
to the conservation of the 1,000-year old temples is unconventional, to put it
delicately.
Rather than attempting to preserve the temples as historical
sites or rebuild them in an historically authentic matter, the authorities have
instead engaged in massive rebuilding using modern methods and materials.
Personally, I found the results disappointing, as are some of the grandiose
tourism development projects being pursued in the region, notably the monstrous
Bagan Viewing Tower associated with the Aureum
Palace Hotel.
Still, Bagan is well worth a visit. Away from the handful of
most visited temples, there are literally hundreds of lesser temples, in
varying states of repair, that are beautiful in their simplicity, natural
setting and absence of tourist hordes.
While I imagine Myanmar's
radical approach to conservation have not helped its case to have the Bagan
Archaeological Zone declared a world heritage site, recent comments by Minister
of Culture U Aye Myint Kyu recognizing the need to bring heritage conservation
management in Bagan in line with international standards are welcome. The
Minister's challenge will be to make good on his comments through effective
action on the ground.
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