Everyday threats faced by world heritage sites

Beyond their fearsome reputation for killing, maiming and terrorizing local populations (and the few foreigners who happen to fall into their hands), militant Islamist outfits like the Taliban and so-called Islamic State have become known for their enthusiastic pillaging and destruction of cultural heritage. While the razing of ancient monuments at Bamiyan (Afghanistan) and Palmyra (Syria) – both world heritage sites – are certainly among their most infamous handiwork, many lesser sites have also been targeted with equally grim results.

Triumphal arch at Palmyra (now destroyed) *

While the attention and oppobrium that these incidents garner is entirely understandable, it is worth keeping in mind that IS is not the only culprit. Heritage sites the world over are suffering cumulative damage caused by visitors and those working in the tourism business. While the scale of any particular incident is not comparable say to the destruction of an ancient tomb in Timbuktu, over time the impact can nonetheless be highly destructive.

Take for example the ancient rock-art of Tadrart Acacus in Libya. Having survived up to 12,000 years, the world heritage site have in recent times been wantonly vandalised by both tourists and tour guides.

Ancient rock art in Tadrart Acacus in Libya (credit: Robert D'Angelo)

These acts are inexcusable, and while arguably authorities should be doing more to safeguard heritage sites like Tradart Acacus, visitors must take responsibility as well, and be held to account when they are found to have damaged a site, whether through malice, carelessness or ignorance.

* The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection, The New York Public Library. (1860 - 1929). Triumphal arch of temple at Palmyra, Syria. Retrieved from http://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47d9-6192-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99

Heritage campaigners score a victory in Lahore

Heritage campaigners in Lahore, Pakistan scored a victory this week in their ongoing struggle to stop the government from building an elevated tram-line near Lahore Fort and Shalamar Gardens, part of a royal complex established in the 16th century under Mughal rule and today a UNESCO world heritage site.

Lahore Fort, ca 1889 (see citation below) *

 
On January 28, 2016 the Lahore High Court reportedly issued an injunction suspending all work within 60 meters of both sites. This ruling follows an intervention by UNESCO last week calling on the government to consider alternate routes that would not risk damaging the site.

Congratulations to those involved in stopping an ill-considered plan; we can only hope that the government accepts the ruling and explores alternate routes.

* Photography Collection, The New York Public Library. Lahore Gate, entrance to the fort at Delhi. Retrieved from http://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47d9-6246-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99

NASA imagery to help preserve Peru's Nasca Lines

Proving the point that any story that can draw on the glamour of NASA and its space program, media this week are reporting on an agreement reached whereby NASA will provide Peruvian authorities with radar imagery of the Nasca Lines to help protect from damage.

The Lines and Geoglyphs of Nasca, scratched into Peru's rocky coastal desert between 500 BCE and 500 CE, were named a world heritagesite in 1994 and are famously one of archaeology's great enigmas.

Aerial view of a Nasca geoglyhph depicting a monkey

While the Nasca Lines have suffered damage over the years as a result of human activity - including tourism - their protection became a matter of international attention in the wake of an ill-fated protest in support of renewable energy by the environmentalist organization Greenpeace in 2014, which allegedly disturbed the Lines.

Under the agreement, imagery will be shared on a no-cost basis, allowing authorities to quickly spot potential threats to the Nasca Lines, and hopefully address them before any damage is done.

Lima newspaper El Comercio has given readers a sense of what the information to be provided with the publication of an image showing one of the geoglyphs along with apparent damage to the site.

Questionable restoration work threatens ancient pagoda at Myanmar's Mrauk-U

"Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it." Spanish philosopher George Santayana's words seem an apt characterization of the Myanmar Department of Archaeology as it pushes forward with questionable restoration work at Mrauk-U in Rakhine State. Mrauk-U was the capital of the Arakanese kingdom between the 15th to the 18th century, and boasts more 1,500 ancient pagodas.

Couloir-Koe-Thaung by Nils PERBET

As reported by the Myanmar Times this week, the Mrauk-U Heritage Trust has raised the alarm over the rebuilding of historic pagodas without regard for the original design, abandoning any pretence of historical authenticity. This follows on the heels of the reported destruction of part of the heritage zone some years ago for the construction of a railway.

While some continue to hold Mrauk-U as a potential world heritage site, the experience of Bagan does not offer much cause optimism. Impressive by any measure and undoubtedly one of Myanmar's top tourist attractions, Bagan's 1996 nomination as a world heritage was rejected by UNESCO, in part due to the prevalence of inauthentic restorations.

Pagodas at Bagan

We can only hope that the Rakhine State Government heeds the Mrauk-U Heritage Trust's warnings.

Greater transparency in assessing world heritage nominations

Given the prestige (not to mention the potential economic windfall) that follows from inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List, it comes as no surprise that nominating countries and other stakeholders want to assure themselves that the review process was undertaken in a fair and transparent manner. Unfortunately, this assurance has been lacking as the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), charged by UNESCO with the preliminary screening of nominations, carries out its work behind closed doors.

Facing criticism regarding its review process (and perhaps seeking to preempt an external review), ICOMOS has reportedly revamped its screening and - effective for the crop of sites being considered this year - is now asking nominating countries to attend the internal meetings where their applications are discussed.

Transparency is usually a sound operating principle in any circumstance, and all the more so in the politically charged environment of world heritage sites.

An uncertain road ahead for residents of Algiers' kasbah

On the shores of the Mediterranean, just a short flight from Western Europe, Algiers' kasbah could easily be a top-rated tourist attraction. Inscribed as a worldheritage site in 1992, the kasbah (or medina) dates from the 4th century BCE, when it was established as a Carthaginian trading post, and is brimming over with the remains of a citadel, mosques and Ottoman-style palaces.

Yet recent history has not been kind to the kasbah, or Algeria more generally. An armed Islamist insurrection in the 1990s led to tens of thousands of deaths and widespread atrocities both on the part of militant groups and security forces. Within Algiers, the kasbah was a militant stronghold, and while the conflict may have largely ended by 2000, the kasbah continues to struggle with a legacy of decay and neglect.

The New York Public Library. (1670). De Stadt Algier.*

Crumbling buildings are everywhere as is evidence of poor sanitation and decaying infrastructure. While many observers are despairing of ever seeing positive change, there is some indication that the tide may be turning. Since 2012 authorities have allocated almost USD1 billion for the kasbah's rehabilitation. However, these efforts are not being welcomed in all quarters. Some complain at being forcibly relocated while renovation work is being carried out as well as producing rampant real estate speculation.

The jury is still out at whether the Algerian authorities can protect the kasbah's unique historical heritage without irrevocably changing the character of a vibrant, tight-knit community whose forebears have lived in the kasbah for generations.

* Retrieved from http://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47db-e424-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99

World heritage status for the Belgian traffic jam?

Such is the cachet of the UNESCO World Heritage List that campaigners and marketers seem find its use irresistible to draw attention to their pet project.

Perhaps inspired by last month's Facebook campaign to register an overturned van in Cornwall inscribed as a world heritage site, Belgian ad agency Air has launched a marketing campaign for Belgian Rail premised on a tongue-in-cheek petition to give world heritage status to the Belgian traffic jam. Certainly, the case for such a designation appears strong: Brussels and Antwerp reportedly have the worst traffic anywhere in Europe or North America, topping even notoriously traffic-choked Los Angeles.

Whether or not the mock campaign succeeds in getting more people out of their cars and onto Belgian Rail remains to be seen, but at a a minimum it helps to reinforce the profile of UNESCO and its World Heritage Centre.

Treasure trove of world heritage sites in Japan

Given that my firsthand experience of Japan is limited to the interior of Narita International Airport, I appreciated the Japan Times' overview this week of the country's world heritage sites. While Himeji Castle, a 17th century fortified complex in Hyogo Prefecture receives pride of place, the article also includes a link to a useful map (reproduced below) showing all 19 of the country's world heritage sites. A handy resource for anyone interested in cultural heritage who is planning a trip to Japan!

Suppressed report to UNESCO on management of Rideau Canal finally released

Tight control over messaging and underwhelming support for United Nations institutions are two well-known characteristics of Canada's former Conservative government. It therefore comes as no surprise that a 2013 report to UNESCO on the management of the Rideau Canal, a world heritage site and prominent attraction in Ottawa, was suppressed.

Skating on the Rideau Canal near in Ottawa

No longer. Thanks to the efforts of the Friends of the Rideau advocacy group and the Ottawa Citizen newspaper, the report has now been released publicly.

However, anyone expecting embarrassing revelations will be disappointed. As noted by the Ottawa Citizen While the report points to a number of weaknesses in the management of the heritage site, including an education and awareness program that falls short of expectations and "below optimum" staffing levels, the picture painted is largely one of competence.

Rideau Canal pathway in the Fall

Meanwhile, the Friends of the Rideau disputes several statements made by Parks Canada (the government agency responsible for the management of the Rideau Canal and author of the report). However, whether any follow up to the report will be undertaken by UNESCO following the release of the report remains to be seen.

Selfies and world heritage sites: A dangerous mix?

Along with hoverboards and e-cigarettes, the selfie and its sinister accessory - the selfie-stick - are facing a continuing backlash in the media and officialdom. Ostensibly linked to safety concerns over the danger posed by the sticks and the careless photographers wielding them, it appears that accidents are particularly common at world heritage sites, based on a string of incidents in recent months.

These include a Japanese tourist who died after slipping on stairs while taking a selfie at the Taj Mahal's Royal Gate, and just this week a Chilean tourist who was struck by a train in mid-selfie near Machu Picchu, the world-renowned sanctuary of the Inca empire.

While thankfully the Chilean tourist survived the accident, I have no doubt it is only a matter of days if not weeks before the next such incident comes to light

To my mind the lesson is clear, and it has nothing to do selfie-sticks: accidents are sure to happen whenever people are not paying attention to their surroundings.

Defeat for heritage campaigners in Liverpool

While heritage campaigners have chalked up a number of victories in the United Kingdom in recent years, Liverpool was the site of a defeat this week as the High Court ruled against those seeking to halt a major commercial development project on the Eastside of Lime Street, part of a world heritage site that comprises the city's historic centre and docklands.

SAVE Britain's Heritage, spearheading the fight against the development, which includes a new hotel, shops, restaurants and a student residence, remains committed in its opposition, indicating that it will appeal the ruling to save historic buildings on Lime Street that are slated for demolition.

As is often the case in conflicts over commercial development in heritage districts, the challenge lies in preserving the traditional character and historical integrity of an area without stunting the dynamism that can come with responsible commercial development.

ICC case involving Timbuktu war crimes suspect inches forward

The trial of Mr. Ahmad Al Faqi Al Mahdi at the International Criminal Court (ICC) in The Hague is one step closer today with the Court's ruling that confirmation of charges against Mr. Al Mahdi would take place on March 1, 2016.

As reported previously on this blog, Mr. Al Mahdi stands accused of war crimes in relation to the destruction of mausoleums and a mosque in Timbuktu, a world heritage site, while the city was under occupation by Islamist forces in 2012.

f the charges are confirmed, the case will be transferred to a Trial Chamber, which will conduct the subsequent phase of the proceedings.

Government takes over ticket sales at Angkor Wat

In what hopefully will prove to be a positive development for Angkor, a world heritage site in Cambodia and one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia, the government assumed responsibility for ticket sales at the site effective January 1, 2016.

The takeover, formally announced by Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen in November, marks the end of a 17-year concession to the Sokimex Group, a politically connected firm which also operates a national grid of fuel stations, hotels and resorts. Sokimex has been the focus of corruption accusations in its handling of the concession. According to opposition politician Son Chhay the company was involved in an arrangement whereby visitor numbers and revenue were under-reported, resulting in large amounts of money being unaccounted for.

With 2.1 million foreigner visitors to Angkor in 2015 (up to 2 percent over 2014), the site reportedly generated USD60 million in revenue last year. Given the poverty faced by many ordinary Cambodians, not to mention the critical importance of continued investment in the preservation of the Angkor archaeological site, let's hope that the new arrangements closes a chapter on the misappropriation of Angkor ticket sale revenues.

Hué: A world heritage site in Vietnam not to be missed

When Vietnam's war with the United States effectively ended in 1975, who would have imagined that the country would one day become a magnet for Western tourists? Yet that is exactly what is happening as more and more visitors discover the amazing cultural and natural attractions on offer, including eight world heritage sites. And every indication suggests that visitor numbers will only continue to increase, as government authorities tirelessly promote Vietnam as a tourism destination, both regionally within Asia and further afield in Western Europe.

While my own feelings about visiting Vietnam are a little conflicted - on the one hand I met many kind and welcoming people, yet on the other I felt I had to constantly on guard against rip-offs and scams - its history and heritage are second to none, of which Hué, the country's former capital under the Nguyen dynasty and world heritage site, is truly outstanding.

And clearly I'm not alone in thinking so: Hué ranked tenth in a recent survey of "top destinations on the rise in Asia" by TripAdvisor. Furthermore, the city reportedly welcomed more than 2 million visitors in 2015, an increase of 13 percent over the previous year.

Notwithstanding the on-again off-again rain during my visit in August 2011, the complex of administrative and imperial monuments at Hué took me the better part of a day to visit, and I left feeling I could have spent even longer.

Not only was the site remarkable for its layout, which was designed according to precepts of ancient oriental philosophy, but the state of preservation of the citadel walls, palaces and other buildings was impressive. That being said, excavation and restoration work is ongoing, and war damage is still very much in evidence, including shell craters and bullet-pocked walls.

Still, this doesn't detract from the site and I look forward to my next visit...

A seven-step program to turn Nigeria into a "tourism giant"

The Eagle Online, a Nigerian newspaper, published a thoughtful article yesterday on seven steps Nigeria must take it if it become a "tourism giant". With outstanding cultural heritage, attractive beaches, dynamic cities, etc, the country undeniably has tremendous potential, yet as everyone knows Nigeria is dogged by an awful reputation for corruption online con artists and, in recent years, a bloody Islamist insurgency.

While arguably Nigeria needs to focus first on improving its international reputation and tackling Boko Haram before it can hope to attract any significant number of international visitors, all seven steps are sound, and moreover several could equally be applied in any number of countries, including many whose current tourism strategy seems fixated on showcasing just one or two major attractions, raising serious questions of sustainability and equity in the process (Cambodia's focus on Angkor Wat comes to mind in this regard).

In brief, the seven steps are:

1. Develop a tourism mindset 
2. Promote internal tourism 
3. Integrate all the tourism attractions 
4. Make travelling easy 
5. Give us world-class institutions 
6. Dream big dreams 
7. Give everyone light

Good advice, to which I would add just one more suggestion: given local people a stake in the success of the tourism industry, as they can be your most effective ambassadors to foreign visitors - either in a positively or negatively.

Conflict in Chichen-Itza: Handicraft vendors and local authorities square off

The Yucatan Times reported this week on simmering conflict at the pre-hispanic City of Chichen-Itza, a world heritage site on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. The problem is a familiar one. While visitor numbers have surged since the site's designation in 2011, local communities claim that have not benefited from the boost to the region's economy, given that tourists for the most part visit Chichen-Itza on day tours from Merida or Cancun, returning to their luxury hotels on the coast immediately following their visit.

Not surprisingly, local people have sought to derive economic advantage from the tourist influx, with vendors thronging the site to sell souvenirs and handicrafts. However, unfortunately the lack of controls has left many tourists feeling harassed by hard-selling vendors, which in turn has led to what some claim is a ham-fisted reaction by authorities.

While there are indications that Yucatan State Governor Rolando Zapata Bello is working with the National Institute of Anthropology and History to develop an action plan to address the problems at Chichen-Itza, the challenge, as seen at other world heritage sites where local communities have been marginalized (e.g. Petra in Jordan), is to follow through and implement concrete measures that balance the interests of all concerned: government authorities, the tourism sector, local communities as well visitors.

Let's hope Governor Zapata is successful in his efforts to achieve this balance in Chichen-Itza.